Sewing the Collar: ZW Bell Jacket

Posted by Birgitta Helmersson on

These are further images to help in sewing together the collar and collar stand for the ZW Bell Jacket

*The sewing steps are numbered in order based on the PDF Instructions Booklet.

STEP 5A

Before starting make sure you have attached an iron on fusing to the wrong side of the OUTER and LINING collar pieces (C).

 

STEP 5B

With right sides together sew the CB seam of the OUTER collar pieces following the notch for the seam allowance amount. Press seams open. Repeat for LINING collar pieces.

 

STEP 5C

With right sides together place the collar stand OUTER pieces (D) together in pairs and sew the centre back seam. press seams open. Repeat for LINING.

 

STEP 5D

Place one LINING collar stand onto one OUTER collar stand, wrong side to wrong side, lining up the CB seams. Sew together with a stitch around all edges approximately 5mm / 0.125” away from the raw edges then repeat for the other set of collar stands.

 

STEP 5E

With an 8mm / 0.375” seam allowance sew the OUTER collar (C) along the bottom edge with the notches to one of the collar stands (D) along the top curved edge with the notches, with the right side of the collar against the OUTER fabric of the collar stand. Match the CB seams and the notches. Press seams open. Repeat with the collar LINING, right side of the collar against the OUTER fabric of the collar stand.

 

STEP 5F

Place the LINING collar onto the OUTER collar, right sides facing together, and sew together with an 8mm / 0.375” seam allowance along the top curved edge of the collar between the notches on the outer edges of the collar. The bottom part, along the collar stand edge, should be left open.

 

STEP 5G

Snip into the notches on each side right up to the start of the stitch lines, you may also want to trim the seam allowances around the curves a little so that it will press nicely once the collar is turned the right way.

Turn the collar out the right way and press. Do an understitch close to the seam on the lining side, it may be difficult to get the understitch close to the notches due to the curve of the collar so just do this as far as you can between the notches, to hold the lining side neatly down. This stitch line should not be visible on the OUTER side of the collar.

 

 

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