This tutorial takes you through the construction of the patch pockets for the ZW Bell Jacket, show more details with colour images. These pockets are lined and then top stitched onto the front body of the jacket.
*The sewing steps are numbered in order based on the PDF Instructions Booklet.
STEP 3A/3B
Sew together the hip pockets by placing pieces G and H, right sides together, in pairs and sewing one long edge together. Sew together the chest pocket by placing pieces H right sides together and sewing along the long edge.
Press all seams open then overlock across the top short edge of each pocket.
Repeat STEP 3A for lining pieces, sewing together the hip pockets together in pairs and the chest pocket together. Press seams open. DO NOT overlock across the top edges.
STEP 3C/3D/3F
Place the hip pocket lining pieces onto the hip pocket outer pieces, in pairs, right sides together and matching the bottom edges together. Sew one long edge together, then move the pocket lining to the other long edge of the outer pocket and sew together in the same way.
Press the seams towards the lining. Even out the lining on the hip pockets so that the lining is centred to the outer pockets top stitch across the bottom short edge.
Repeat steps for the chest pocket
Turn hip pockets and chest pocket the right side out and press.
HIP POCKETS: Fold down the top edge so that the total height of the pocket measures 21cm / 8.25", wrong side to wrong side, and press and pin in place. Do 2 rows of top stitching to hold down the fold of the pocket.
CHEST POCKET: Fold down the top edge so that the total height of the pocket measures 15cm / 6" 11.5cm, wrong side to wrong side, and press and pin in place. Do 2 rows of top stitching to hold down the fold of the pocket.
Finally hand sew the sides of the pockets together along the folded edge to close the holes neatly here.
STEP 3G
*Pocket placement is a guide only, pin on the jacket and try on first to see you are happy with where they are sitting. Keep in mind that the centre front edges will turn in at the first notch on the neck when the jacket is finished, and the hem will turn up 5cm / 2”, so you will need to allow for enough space for this and make sure they are not too close to the centre fronts or hems.
*The colour image of the jacket below shows the jacket with hems already turned up and the centre fronts turned in to the first notch.
Pin the hip pockets in place on the left and right front body, measuring 43cm / 17” down from the shoulder to the top of the pocket and 13.5cm / 5.25” away from the centre front edge.
Pin the chest pocket in place on the left front body, measuring 25cm / 10” down from the shoulder and 13.5cm / 5.25” away from the centre front edge.
Top stitch all pockets to the body on the long edges and the bottom short edge. Secure the top left and right corner of each pocket with an extra stitched triangle.
NEXT TUTORIAL for the ZW BELL JACKET
