This tutorial covers all the sewing steps for the ZW Jumper. This jumper is an oversized cosy shape with slim fitting sleeves making it perfect for layering. Cutting instructions and all the other info for this pattern can be found with the sewing pattern.
1. BACK SEAM
With the back bodies placed right sides together, sew the centre back seam with 1cm / 0.375" seam allowance (S/A). Overlock the seams together and press the seam to one side.
Place the front and back bodies right sides together and sew the shoulders together with 1cm / 0.375" S/A, making sure you match the front neck edges to back neck notches. Overlock the seams together and press the seams to the back.
3. BODY HEMS
Overlock the front and back hem edges between the notches. Starting a little above the notch point, turn the hem to the wrong side, starting at 0 near the notch and angling out to 2.5cm / 1" for the rest of the hem. Press and pin the hem in place. The hem may need to be slightly eased in due to the curve. Top stitch the hem down with two rows of stitching, around 0.5cm / 0.2" apart.
4. SIDE SEAMS
With right sides together sew the side seams with 1cm / 0.375" S/A starting at the sleeve hem, and finishing at the side seam notches. Overlock the seams together and leave a tail of overlocking around 2.5cm / 1" at each side seams. Press the seams to the back then tuck in the overlocking behind the seam. Top stitch down at the side seam, to hold the seam in place and to strengthen the start of the split.
5. NECK BAND
Fold the neck ribbing in half lengthways, right sides together, and sew the centre back (CB) edge with 1cm / 0.375" S/A to make a tube. Press the seams open. Press the band in half widthways with wrong sides together and then top stitch the raw edges together with a wide stitch, around 0.5cm / 0.2" away from the edge.
Pin the neck band in place around the neckline of the jumper, right side ribbing to right side jumper, making sure the centre front (CF) notches match and the CB seams match. Make sure the ribbing is stretched evenly all the way around the neck. Stitch the ribbing to the neck with 1cm / 0.375” S/A then overlock the seams together, starting at the CB and finishing at the CB.
6. BACK FACING
Attach the binding to the curved edge of the facing. Start by sewing one long edge of the binding to the facing with 0.8cm / 0.375" S/A, right side binding to wrong side facing. Fold the binding over twice to the right side of the facing and pin in place. Top stitch the binding down close to the fold line. You can have a small amount of tension in the binding when doing this, but you should not stretch the binding on.
Place the straight raw edge of the facing onto the back neck seam of the jumper with the right side of the facing against the wrong side of the jumper, and with the curved edge of the facing pointing upwards. Stitch the facing to the neck seam with a 1cm / 0.375" seam allowance, making sure that the CB seams match.
Press the facing down and do an under-stitch along the back neck close to the seam line on the facing. This stitch is to hold the facing down neatly onto the seam allowance and should ONLY be stitched through the facing and neck seam allowance, not the actual back jumper.
Pin the facing to the back jumper body, wrong side facing to wrong side jumper, making sure that the facing is sitting flat and not creating any tucks or pulls near the shoulders. Top stitch the facing down through all layers, around the curved edge.
7. SLEEVE HEMS
WIDTHS 145-160cm / 57-63" - WITH RIBBING CUFF – VIEW 2
Fold the sleeve ribbing pieces in half lengthways, right sides together, and sew them together to make a tube, with 1cm / 0.375" S/A . Press the seams open. Press the bands in half widthways, with wrong sides together, and then top stitch the raw edges together with a wide stitch, around 0.5cm / 0.2" away from the edge.
With the jumper still turned the wrong way out, insert the cuffs into the sleeve, right side ribbing to right side jumper, lining up the raw edge of the sleeve hems to the raw edges of the ribbing. Pin in place making sure that the ribbing is stretched evenly around and that the centre notch on the ribbing matches the top seam of the arm, and the underarm seams match. Stitch the ribbing to the sleeve hem with 1cm / 0.375” S/A, then overlock the seams together leaving a short tail of overlocking at the join. Tuck the overlocking under the seam allowance and stitch in place on the seam so that it doesn’t unravel.
7. SLEEVE HEMS
WIDTHS 160-175cm / 63-69" - WITHOUT RIBBING CUFF – VIEW 1
Overlock the raw edges of the sleeves. Turn the sleeves to the wrong side by 2.5cm / 1" and press and pin in place. Top stitch the hems down with 2 rows of stitching around 0.5cm / 0.2" apart.
And now you have a finished jumper!