Sewing the lining: ZW Bell Jacket

Posted by Birgitta Helmersson on

This tutorial takes you through in detail with colour images the construction of the lining for the ZW Bell Jacket.

*The sewing steps are numbered in order based on the PDF Instructions Booklet.


Sew the centre back pleat on the body LINING the same way as the OUTER.


STEP 4B  With right sides together sew the centre back seam together of OUTER pieces E, along the short straight edge. Press seams open. Repeat for LINING pieces L.


STEP 4C  Place the LINING piece L onto the OUTER piece E, wrong side to wrong side, lining up the centre seams. Pin in place and top stitch together, stitching approximately 5mm / 0.125” away from the raw lining edges along the top straight edge and around the curved edge. This lining acts as an interfacing piece for the back neck facing.

*The jacket used for this tutorial has had a layer of fusing/interfacing attached to  the entire length of fabric before cutting, but generally speaking you would not have an interfacing on the wrong side of the back neck facing AS WELL AS the lining. The lining is intended to act as the fusing/interfacing to strengthen this piece.


STEP 4D  Bind around the curved edge of the facing.


STEP 4E  Place the back neck facing on the back lining, right side lining to wrong side facing and pin in place, matching the centre back facing seam to the centre back pleat and making sure that the pleat is evenly and neatly pinned underneath the facing. The centre back top edge of the back neck facing should line up with the centre back top edge of the back body. The left and right top edge of the back neck facing will sit above the shoulder line by around 2cm / 0.75”, or an amount that ensures that the back neck facing sits neatly on top of the back lining.




Place the front shoulder over the back shoulder, right sides together and sew together, making sure that the top shoulder edges of the front and back linings match together (ie: the right and left top edge of the back neck facing should sit above the shoulder line). Press seams to the front.



Sew the darts on the sleeve lining hems using templates M and N. Mark 4 equal quarters across the bottom edge of the hem, on the wrong side of the fabric. There should be 5 darts across the bottom hem.

Press darts to one side. Do a stitch around the hem of the sleeve, approximately 8mm / 0.375” up from the raw edge to secure the darts in place. The bottom folded edge of each dart will sit slightly above the hem line.



Sew the sleeve to the armhole making sure you match the sleeve underarm seam to the front armhole notch on the body, the centre notch on the sleeve to the shoulder seam, and the double notch on the sleeve to the double notch on the back armhole. Gently press seams down towards the sleeve.



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