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ATTACHING THE COLLAR ON THE ZW COAT

Posted by Birgitta Helmersson on

I started working on this during the week using this same dark wool check fabric as the bias tape tutorial but it was impossible to see what was going on! So I have made up a toile using a lighter cotton drill fabric.

This tutorial shows you how to attach the collar to the short coat, on the long coat you have an extra step here where the cf facing extends out to create a double collar, but in essence the way it is attached is the same.

Start by sewing together the CB seams of your collar pieces, press open and then sew together to top curved edge. Sew here with only 5mm S/A. I always do a 5mm seam allowance on curved pieces as this means you don’t need to do an extra step of trimming back the seam to get a nice curve when you turn the piece out.

Turn your collar out and press the curve nicely.

Attach your collar to the front and back neck. Mark your centre point of the back neck and then place right sides together attaching to the front first, make sure you line up the edge of your collar with the very front edge of your front neckline, where the facing starts, and match your shoulder notches and centre back seam to centre back point. Stitch your collar in place, you will need to take slightly less seam allowance on the neck part at the CF and at the shoulder points so that the you don’t create any puckers when sewing.

Now press this seam to the inside of your collar and press the underside of your collar in place, turning in 1cm S/A on this end. Pin across the whole collar making sure it is sitting neatly, especially at the CF point. Hand tack this in place all the way along.

And thats it collar done!

I hope this was helpful!

Birgitta x

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